< Nota - Show Notes for Hodinkee - Episode: Day 1 – W&W 2023 Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, And A Show Highlight From Lange
View notes for Podcast: Hodinkee
Mar 27, 2023

Day 1 – W&W 2023 Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, And A Show Highlight From Lange

We're back with the 2023 edition of the daily face-to-face episodes recorded in Geneva during Watches & Wonders 2023. Stay tuned for recaps of our ...  favorite new releases, show-only experiences, and just general nerdery surrounding the latest and greatest from the fair.

Introducing: Six New Very Colorful Rolex Day-Dates

Jigsaw puzzle motif dial made from champlevé enameling available in yellow gold, white gold, and Everose. The watch displays "inspirational" keywords at the 12 o'clock display ('Happy', 'Eternity', 'Gratitude', 'Peace', 'Faith', 'Love' and 'Hope') and 31 emojis (!!!) in place of the date at 3 o'clock.

Introducing: A New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbles Up, With All The Colors On One Dial

Brand: Rolex Model: Oyster Perpetual Reference Number: 277200 (31mm), 126000 (36mm), 124300 (41mm) Diameter: 31mm, 36mm, 41mm Case Material: Oystersteel Dial Color: Turquoise blue "celebration motif" with pastel pink, hunter green, coral, yellow, and turquoise Indexes: White gold surrounds on stick indices Lume: Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence Water Resistance: 100m Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Steel

Introducing: The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium

This new release is a full titanium Yacht-Master 42. That means a titanium case and titanium bracelet - just like the Deepsea Challenge. In terms of aesthetics, the overall design language is everything we have come to expect from the black-Cerachrom bezel YM's of late.

Introducing: The Rolex Explorer Is Now 40mm

Huh? Yes, you read that right.

Introducing: The Rolex GMT-Master II In Yellow Gold (!) And Two-Tone On A Jubilee Bracelet

Because we aren't just seeing a return to YG, but to YG with Jubilee, which is something we have not seen Rolex do this century...until today. Seeing a yellow gold GMT - even a two-tone GMT - with a Jubilee bracelet is one of those things that makes you think "Wait, Rolex doesn't already make this?"

Hands-On: The Rolex Perpetual 1908 Might Just Be The Dressy Rolex We've Been Waiting For

I'll drone on about the need for smaller dress watches as much as the next guy, but I've gotta admit: I didn't mind the case size one bit. Would I have liked it even more with 1, 2, or 3mm taken off?

Introducing: The New Rolex Daytona With Redesigned Case And New Caliber 4131

"The dial receives new graphic balance, and harmonious colour combinations accentuate the contrast between the dial and the counters - or their rings. The Oyster case has been redesigned, and its profile is highlighted by the light reflections on the lugs and case sides.

Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay 54 Doesn't Waste A Millimeter

As I said in my original Intro, this will undoubtedly bring a new balance to the Black Bay line and offer specific appeal to those who either prefer a genuinely smaller dive watch or those who want a modern and robust Tudor that still feels like vintage.

Breaking News: Tudor Ref. 7923 Submariner Sells For $99,999 On Ebay, Making It The Most Expensive Vintage Tudor Ever Sold Publicly

The watch in question is the super rare Tudor Submariner ref. 7923 from 1956/1957. Only a handful have even been sold publicly and we have no reason to believe there are that many more out there. This is the only manually-wound Submariner from either Tudor or Rolex and the watch features a small crown, a super slim case, and a flat caseback.

Introducing: The New Tudor Black Bay With Burgundy Bezel

In 2012 the first Black Bay was released with a burgundy bezel and it returned in 2015. Now, the watch returns to its red roots with burgundy, a beautiful black dial, a steel case, and slightly tweaked hands. It's a little big at 41mm with a domed sapphire crystal, though thinner than the original BB.

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time 5224R (Live Pics)

Making the 24-hour display possible is the new caliber 21-260 PS FUS, a micro-rotor movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Instead of using pushers to adjust the dual-time zone display, as is common in other Patek travel times, the new ref. 5224R features a new, patented three-position crown.

Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Aquanauts - Including A Flyback Chronograph And Aquanaut Luce, Both In Rose Gold

The Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph gets the rose gold treatment, and Patek brings the annual calendar to the Aquanaut for the first time. Plus, a third model with a diamond bezel.

Introducing: Patek Philippe's First Pilot-Style Travel Time Chronograph

Caliber: Caliber CH 28‑520 C FUS Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day/night indicator, flyback chronograph with 60-minute counter, travel time function Diameter: 31 mm Thickness: 6.95 mm Power Reserve: Minimum 45 hours, max 55 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 34mm Additional Details: Sapphire Caseback

Introducing: The Colorful New Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G

The black dial has different finishes for each of its concentric circles: "carbon style" stamped guilloche is in the center, surrounded by circular graining and brushing. It's the same dial treatment seen in the 6007A (and last year's 5935 World Timer); we've also seen the carbon-style guilloche in a unique 5004T and 5208T.

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

But that's not to say I think this Odysseus Chronograph is perfect. Few things in life are - I've come to find out. The watch is larger (but not horribly so) at 42.5m wide, and pretty thick at 14.2mm.