Day 1 – W&W 2023 Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, And A Show Highlight From Lange
We're back with the 2023 edition of the daily face-to-face episodes recorded in Geneva during Watches & Wonders 2023. Stay tuned for recaps of our ... favorite new releases, show-only experiences, and just general nerdery surrounding the latest and greatest from the fair.
Jigsaw puzzle motif dial made from champlevé enameling available in yellow gold, white gold, and Everose. The watch displays "inspirational" keywords at the 12 o'clock display ('Happy', 'Eternity', 'Gratitude', 'Peace', 'Faith', 'Love' and 'Hope') and 31 emojis (!!!) in place of the date at 3 o'clock.
This new release is a full titanium Yacht-Master 42. That means a titanium case and titanium bracelet - just like the Deepsea Challenge. In terms of aesthetics, the overall design language is everything we have come to expect from the black-Cerachrom bezel YM's of late.
Because we aren't just seeing a return to YG, but to YG with Jubilee, which is something we have not seen Rolex do this century...until today. Seeing a yellow gold GMT - even a two-tone GMT - with a Jubilee bracelet is one of those things that makes you think "Wait, Rolex doesn't already make this?"
"The dial receives new graphic balance, and harmonious colour combinations accentuate the contrast between the dial and the counters - or their rings. The Oyster case has been redesigned, and its profile is highlighted by the light reflections on the lugs and case sides.
As I said in my original Intro, this will undoubtedly bring a new balance to the Black Bay line and offer specific appeal to those who either prefer a genuinely smaller dive watch or those who want a modern and robust Tudor that still feels like vintage.
The watch in question is the super rare Tudor Submariner ref. 7923 from 1956/1957. Only a handful have even been sold publicly and we have no reason to believe there are that many more out there. This is the only manually-wound Submariner from either Tudor or Rolex and the watch features a small crown, a super slim case, and a flat caseback.
In 2012 the first Black Bay was released with a burgundy bezel and it returned in 2015. Now, the watch returns to its red roots with burgundy, a beautiful black dial, a steel case, and slightly tweaked hands. It's a little big at 41mm with a domed sapphire crystal, though thinner than the original BB.
Making the 24-hour display possible is the new caliber 21-260 PS FUS, a micro-rotor movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Instead of using pushers to adjust the dual-time zone display, as is common in other Patek travel times, the new ref. 5224R features a new, patented three-position crown.
The black dial has different finishes for each of its concentric circles: "carbon style" stamped guilloche is in the center, surrounded by circular graining and brushing. It's the same dial treatment seen in the 6007A (and last year's 5935 World Timer); we've also seen the carbon-style guilloche in a unique 5004T and 5208T.